Cassis, France

Cassis, France
Cassis, France

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Indian Connection, Durban, South Africa

See: http://www.indian-connection.co.za


I travel to Durban quasi regularly for work, and I have never had better Indian food in my entire life. I asked a friend why the Indian food is SO good and Durban, and her hypothesis is that its because there are so many people from India in Durban that the restaurants can prepare the food in a more traditional way. Whatever the reason, eating Indian food in Durban has ruined me for life.

Indian Connection is situated atop a hill in pretty safe part of town (and there is plenty of nearby parking, with attendants). The service is friendly, and you may very well get to meet each member of the family that owns the restaurant. It's worth ordering appetizers, as there is no rush here, and it may take some time before you see your entrees. An added bonus of Indian Connection is the extensive vegetarian selection, many of which contain mushrooms. Also, be sure and order at least one dish that features prawns.

The menu boasts a robust wine selection, featuring South African wines. A nice, versatile choice is the Nederberg sauvignon blanc. Notably absent from the menu however, is Indian beer.

We sampled a bunch of dishes (since there were five of us), but some of my favorite appetizers included the fish tikka and the paneer tikka. The latter is served as generous squares of paneer skewered with vegetables. The chefs at Indian Connection are not afraid to use heat (you can request to have your food mild, medium, hot or extra hot), so don't be afraid to speak up. The paneer tikka was quite spicy.

We had a mix of dishes for our entrees, including prawn korma, dhingri dolma (an amazing mushroom delight), dal makhani, and bhuna gosht. All were divine. We also ordered the bread basket, which had enough bread to feed a small army (which were clearly were, becuase we crushed it), and allowed you to sample everything.

I don't usually order dessert at Indian restaurants, but in Durban at least, there is a dessert known as the Bombay Crush. If you ever see this, you MUST get it. My first sip is always followed by the thought, "This is so weird. Why didn't I just get rice pudding?" But then... wait for it... I realize how delicious it is. It is so delicious that I end up craving it the next day, and the next. It's kind of like a milk shake, made with fennel, rosewater (which turns the whole thing maraschino cherry pink), and these very fine vermicelli noodles. I know, I know, but trust me, you've got to try it.


Sunday, April 14, 2013

Bouche, San Francisco, California

See: http://www.bouchesf.com


In my quest to find a moderately priced restaurant that could accommodate a party of five on a Friday evening at the very last minute, I discovered Bouche. Bouche is a traditional French restaurant housed in a teeny, tiny space just off Union Square. Reservations are highly recommended as the space fills up fast, and there aren't many spots at the bar to wait for a table. You are serenaded with the sounds of francophiles as soon as you walk in the door, which is absolutely lovely. The space has a romantic feel and is softly lit, though this is not the place to come to enjoy deep conversation with your companions as it can get quite loud.

You'll pass by the kitchen on your way upstairs -- take a moment to be impressed by how the chefs are able to turn out beautiful food from about a 4X4 cook space (that is only a tiny exaggeration). I started with the spring garlic soup, which was by far the star of the meal. It was an Eastery green, velvety in texture, and made me experience garlic in a whole new way. Creamy, subtle, divine. I had the Seared Steelhead with cauliflower cream and nettle and nut pesto for my entree. The fish was cooked perfectly and the dish was what I might call solidly good, but paled a bit in comparison to the soup. This does not necessarily mean the fish was mediocre, but rather highlights how amazing the soup was. Now, dessert. The tart of the day was a walnut tart, lined with a layer of bittersweet chocolate. Between the walnuts and the chocolate, it was like some sort of delicious new health food (or so we told ourselves). All of the dishes were plated artfully, engaging yet another sense as we enjoyed our meal.

Despite the fact that two member of our party were almost 30 minutes late (ack!), our server was gracious, kind, and attentive. Bouche is a perfect fit if you are seeking traditional French fare in a casual  (yet chic) setting. 

Tuesday, April 9, 2013

Ferry Building, San Francisco, California

See: http://www.ferrybuildingmarketplace.com


A little bit of this, a little bit of that (ok, maybe a LOT of this and that). We started our tour of the Ferry Building at Blue Bottle Coffee, where we waited in line for 25 minutes. Do not let that deter you -- it is well worth the wait. Blue Bottle was brewing their Three Africans blend, and each cup is prepared individually using the drip method. We also sampled a waffle; these are prepared in the Belgian style and served hot off the waffle iron. The outside was gently sprinkled in sugar and the result was a not too sweet treat. My mom and I each got a waffle and in hindsight it may have been a better idea to split one, in order to save room for more treats. Because we couldn't leave San Francisco without trying a Blue Bottle latte, we waited in line for 25 minutes again later in the afternoon (post trip to Sausalito), and once again, it was well worth the wait. The latte was expertly prepared (complete with latte art) with milk that had been steamed to sweetened perfection (by hand nonetheless -- none of this automatic Starbucks milk steaming going on over here).

We also stopped into Cowgirl Creamery where the breakfast choices left my mouth watering. We settled on toast layered with dijon mustard, caramelized onions, and gruyere, otherwise known as a "toastie". If you don't believe me when I say it was delicious, take a look at this picture:



We also sampled nibbles and treats from the Hog Island Oyster Company ($2 oysters? Don't mind if I do!), Miette, and Stonehouse California Olive Oil (I'll be buying a bottle of their "Reserve" oil as soon as we work through the existing stash at home). If you make it to the Ferry Building on Saturday, don't miss the outdoor farmer's market either -- it's the perfect place to assemble some provisions for a picnic on Sausalito. Think bread, locally grown fruit, hummus, and cheese galore... and you can try everything before you buy. 

Monday, March 25, 2013

Brenda's French Soul Food, San Francisco, California

See: http://frenchsoulfood.com


We wanted to try the Red Door Cafe for breakfast, but it doesn't open until 10:00... and we were a little scared off by some of the Yelp reviews where people were turned away for wearing sunglasses and/or being over the age of 40.

So, we risked life and limb to walk from our hotel in Union Square through the Tenderloin to get to Brenda's on a friend's recommendation. We got to Brenda's just as it was opening, and there were already several people waiting to go in -- always a good sign. Brenda's occupies an older building, and the charm shines through. Old Beau Monde coffee cans hold silverware and napkins, and each table is stocked with Louisiana hot sauce and chutney.

While it may be a but untraditional to order an appetizer at breakfast, we started with three traditional beignets (they also offer savory options, and beignets full of local Ghiradelli chocolate -- AND you can even get a sampler to try then all  -- you should do it). The beignets were light, not at all greasy, and dusted with a generous mound of powdered sugar. In a word, delightful. Also, I rarely order coffee with breakfast as it always seems unsatisfying and like an afterthought in most restaurants, but not so at Brenda's. It was delicious, and served in big, bowl like mugs.

We then moved on to our main courses. I had the shrimp and goat cheese omelette, and it may be one of the best breakfasts I've ever had. There was no shortage of goat cheese, and the shrimp were tender and fresh. The omelette was also stuffed with mounds of caramelized onions and topped with a tomato-bacon jam. If I could purchase a jar (or a tub) of that jam, I would, and then I would proceed to smear it on anything and everything that goes near my mouth. My omelette also came with a biscuit and grits. The grits were yummy after adding some pepper, and the biscuit was great with butter and forkfuls of the omelette.

My mom went for the French Toast, which was topped with a butter pecan sauce. Unfortunately I could only squeeze in a bite, but it too was amazing.

I normally avoid taking pictures of food in restaurants, but I broke my own rule for this one (note the sausage links and French toast in the background):





We sat next to a local who said Brenda's has the best breakfast in the city, and I could not agree more. In fact, it's hard to believe we walked back outside into San Francisco and not New Orleans.


Saturday, March 23, 2013

Sweet Woodruff, San Francisco, California

See: http://www.sweetwoodruffsf.com


The next stop on my San Francisco food tour was Sweet Woodruff for lunch. It's located in Nobb Hill, and is just a quick walk from Grace Chapel. 

The space is bright and sunny, and the daily supply of fresh vegetables is stacked in the back in a wash of color. Orders are placed at the counter, and you are served at one of the four (or so) tables. It may sound odd to comment on this, but the ice water was spiked with lemon, grapefruit, and cucumber slices, and was incredibly refreshing. Other beverage offerings include some local wines and microbrews.

I had the chicken sausage pot pie, which was served in a bowl topped with a square of puff pastry. Everything tasted fresh and light, right down to the bright orange carrots and green peas. My mom had a cheddar and apple sandwich, on a baguette that was slathered in apple butter. In addition to the cheese and thinly sliced granny smith apples, the sandwich was layered with thick cut, smoky bacon. The only way that one could improve upon this combination would be to make it into a grilled cheese version. 

We also had a side of the house-made, seasonal pickles -- fennel slices, olives, asparagus and mushrooms served in a mason jar. Delightful.

Sweet Woodruff also offers instructional classes (see the website for details), and you can get your food to go if you aren't lucky enough to snag a seat.


Friday, March 22, 2013

Fable, San Francisco, California


I am in food heaven. Heaven. This week, work brings me to San Francisco, and I may accumulate enough awesome food experiences to support several weeks worth of blog posts. My mom had never been to San Francisco, so with the help of some miles, I took her with me.

Our first night we dined at Fable on Castro Street. The space is quaint and whimsical (think framed portraits of characters from various - wait for it  - fables and fairytales). The service was impeccable, and one of the co-owners checked in with us a couple of times. It was not intrusive, it was because he knew we wanted to chat with him about his amazing food.

The bread basket was simple, two crusty rolls with softened, salty butter (this scored huge points in my book). We started with the Caesar salad, which was served as a high pile of whole romaine leaves with croutons and a lemon wedge. The dressing was creamy, and the first taste was of lemon, followed by a hint of anchovy. Outstanding.

I had the crispy chicken with brussels sprouts and potato gratin. I rarely order chicken in a restaurant and felt a little guilty about doing so in this instance, but all that faded away with the first bite. The chicken was moist, and the skin perfectly crisp. The au jus around the plate dressed the brussels sprouts and complemented the cheesiness of the potatoes. My mom had the pork chop with cheddar cheese grits, and I can honestly say I have never had a pork chop that tasted like this. Our waitress explained that it was locally raised and organic, and was cooked medium. The meat melted in your mouth and had undertones of bacon.  I do not even possess the language to describe it adequately -- it was really that good.

For dessert, we got both the bittersweet chocolate mouse (complete with salted caramel whipped cream) and a slice of the parsnip walnut cake with cream cheese frosting. The mousse was excellent, but I was sidetracked by the cake, which was like a carrot cake, but better. The cake was moist and the parsnips added a certain spiciness. It was one of the most creative interpretations of a classic that I've had in some time. Unfortunately I couldn't finish it (so, so full), so I took the rest home and snacked on it for breakfast the next day. And it was still awesome.

Fable is a special place, where people from San Francisco eat. The menu is not extensive, but there is something for everyone, and the atmosphere is warm. This is a must on any San Francisco tour. 






Friday, March 15, 2013

Off Vine, Los Angeles (Hollywood), California

See: http://www.offvine.com


I had the opportunity to travel to LA this week to do some work with some amazing people at UCLA. Even in the absence of good food, that would have been enough for me. But, my colleagues were gracious enough to take me to dinner, and we had a lovely meal at Off Vine. Off Vine is housed in an old bungalow, and serves as a little oasis among the chaos of this Hollywood neighborhood. We were lucky enough to sit on the patio, surrounding by a wall of jasmine blossoms. In addition to a delightful dining experience, I learned a little bit about LA culture. Like, our waiter was a WAM (wannabe actor model). It was like living my own, live version of Vanderpump Rules! Also, when I walked inside to use the ladies room, the very fabulous host with amazing glasses called me "doll". I loved him instantly.

I started with a glass of the Voss sauvignon blanc (they also offered a New Zealand option, but the whole when in Rome thing). Like my favorite sauvignon blancs, this one had elements of grapefruit with a mineral-ey finish, and was perfect for a warm LA evening (did I mention we were surrounded by a wall of jasmine blossoms?). 

We were served fresh bread with an herbed olive oil while we waited for the kitchen to open, and opted for the buffalo mozzarella salad as an appetizer. The tomatoes were bright and crisp. (What is worse than tomatoes that have the texture of styrofoam? And so many of them do!) The salad was drizzled with olive oil and a medley of fresh green herbs... and we opted in to the offering of fresh ground pepper.

I was tempted to order the vegan Stuffed Red Pepper, which is stuffed with yummy deliciousness like quinoa, asparagus, mandarin oranges, and dressed with a truffle oil and orange dressing. BUT, then our WAM told us about the specials, one of which was a seafood risotto. As Ina might say, "Who wouln't like that?" The risotto was a little untraditional, and was served with a tomato cream sauce. The shrimp were the highlight of the dish, while the calamari were chewy and tough. There were also chunks of salmon and fresh asparagus, which managed to play nicely with the rest of the dish. The risotto was cooked well and overall was well flavored.

We shared a chocolate soufflé for dessert, which we had to oder at the start of the meal. Unfortunately the edges were a bit overdone, but the middle was pudding-like and nice -- not overly sweet and you could taste the chocolate. It was also quite large and perfect for sharing among four people.

While this wasn't one of the top ten meals of my life, the atmosphere, wine, and the service made it a great experience (also, it helps if you can dine with some incredibly smart and funny researchers from UCLA). The restaurant also has some really neat history, so it felt like a real LA experience.

As an aside, if you get to go to LA, stay at the W in Hollywood. It. Is. Amazing. The roof-deck bar and views are gorgeous, and every night is Saturday night there, even Tuesdays. My room also had a window seat where I could gaze out at the Hollywood Hills when I needed a break from my laptop screen. And Bliss beauty products in the bathroom! (Don't think for a second that I left any of those behind.)