Paris, Summer 2013

While I'm not sure the Internet needs another blog post on Paris, I'm going to share with you a few of the culinary highlights from the trip I recently took with my husband.

Paris. What a spectacular city. This was my second time in France (not counting a 10 hour layover in Paris en route home from Barcelona last year), and I feel a connection to this country that I haven't experienced elsewhere. It's some combination of the food, the wine, the people, the language, and the beauty. I'm already fantasizing about my next trip.

In any case, I was giving a talk in Paris and with the help of Delta Skymiles was able to bring my husband along for six glorious days in Paris. A friend of my husband's who lives in Paris said that she probably hasn't eaten at the same restaurant twice, and I believe her.

We had a few mediocre dinners, mostly when we didn't do our homework and just wandered into a restaurant off the street, usually out of desperate hunger fueled by all of the walking we did. Our most favorite meal was at Bistrot L'Estrapade, a tiny little restaurant serving traditional French fare located in the 5th. While I can't confirm, I suspect our waitress was the wife of the chef, who we occasionally saw peek his head out from the kitchen to gaze at her. We started our meal with a pear that had been poached in white wine and then baked with cream, roquefort cheese, and chorizo. The pear cut through the creaminess and the fat from the chorizo beautifully. We shamelessly sopped up the juices left behind with our bread. We also shared a salad of red apples, beets, and herbed goat cheese, dressed simply in balsamic vinegar and olive oil. My husband had duck that was cooked with melon, while I had a steak with onions, red, wine and potatoes. It was simply outstanding, traditional food.

We also enjoyed the food and the atmosphere at La Jacobine and Le Coupe-Chou, both of which are extremely romantic.The waitstaff at La Jacobine might be WAMs (see my post from Off Vine in LA), which made my lemon chicken tagine even more delightful. I can imagine cozying up here on a crisp fall evening and enjoying this again with a hearty glass of wine, after the French onion soup, of course. While the outdoor seating at Le Coupe-Chou is quaint, don't miss the opportunity to sit inside alongside the stone walls where lots of famous individuals have dined. We enjoyed the salmon carpaccio appetizer, and my pork with mustard sauce and potato gratin was also divine.

One evening we enjoyed a sunset picnic on the Seine, and picked up treats along the way to enjoy: wine, bread, cheese, grapes, hummus, and olives. We found the sweetest little Greek store called Le Piree, located at 47 Boulevard Saint Germain, where we got the hummus and the olives. The hummus was the best I have ever had -- thick and creamy (though they didn't overdo it on the tahini), parsley, pine nuts and coriander. Honestly, the cheese was pretty fantastic, but nothing could really compete with the hummus, and we ate the entire container. We didn't even stop when we ran out of bread.  The gentleman who owns the shop is lovely, and he will converse with you in French or Greek.

Berthillon is synonymous with ice cream in Paris. The flagship store is located on the Ile de Louis, but you can find their ice cream almost anywhere. The ice cream is prepared using only milk, sugar, cream, eggs, and natural flavorings, and it is fantastic. They also serve fruit sorbets, and you can order the ice cream to-go from the window to complement your city stroll, or rest your feet in the tea cafe with table service. We visited Berthillon a few times, and my favorite flavors were the nougat, white chocolate, chocolate chip, and good old fashioned vanilla. If you want gelato, Grom, the Italian based chain also has a home in Paris (and apparently in NYC). Also made from fresh, natural ingredients, I think my favorite offering was the salted caramel. In my very humble opinion, it would be fine to skip the gelato at Amorino -- this felt like the Dairy Queen or the Friendly's of the Paris ice cream/gelato scene (ok, it is still worlds nicer than DQ or Friendly's).

I like to bring foodstuffs home for friends and family when I'm on the road, and the obvious choice in Paris is macarons. You can't go wrong with Georges Larnociol, but I think the macarons at Gerard Mulot as just as good (if not better), and the packaging is much better for travel. Our macarons made it home with no damage at all. The flavor selection is just big enough, though most are classic (hazelnut, vanilla, coffee). Macarons do best in the refigerator, so buy them right before you go home if you don't have access to one. I don't care for the macarons at Laduree -- they look beautiful, but the texture seems off to me.

The chocolate covered almonds dressed up as olives from La Cure Gourmand also make a lovely gift (and you get to take them home in a cheerful yellow gift bag). I love french olive oil, and while Provence is certainly the best place to shop for French oil, O&Co. offers a very small collection of French oils in tins that can travel safely.

Birmingham, Alabama -- Part II

Ollie Irene

See: http://www.ollieirene.com/

Work once again brought me to Birmingham, and my extremely gracious colleagues brought me on another culinary tour of the Birmingham area. Our first stop was Ollie Irene, a semi-finalist for the James Beard Best New Restaurant Award in 2012. Ollie Irene is located in a shopping center in the little borough of Mountain Brook (so yes, at first I was skeptical). The menu is filled with comfort foods that make use of traditional Southern ingredients that are all locally sourced.  The cocktails are classic, but the use of pure, fresh ingredients elevates them to new stature. I am a sucker for herb based cocktails, and the Basil Gimlet did not disappoint.

We started with one of the daily specials – huge rounds of friend green tomatoes lightly coated in cornmeal stacked with layers of thick, homemade guacamole in between.  THIS is the way to eat friend green tomatoes.

I had the catfish for my entrée, which was also lightly coated in cornmeal. The dusting of cornmeal on the fish and the fried green tomatoes was perfectly light and not at all greasy. Truly a culinary marvel. The catfish was served with a sauté of corn, Cajun ham, lemon butter and scallions. The fish was cooked perfectly and it was simply a remarkable dish.

We ended the meal with another special, a galette of local stone fruits with vanilla ice cream. Warm, sweet, tangy, and creamy all at once.

The service was phenomenal. My colleagues frequent Ollie Irene pretty regularly, and were greeted like family. For a pretty nominal fee, you can buy a beer for each member of the staff. Trust me, they deserve it.

Saw’s Juke Joint

See: https://www.facebook.com/SawsJukeJoint

Determined not to leave Birmingham again without good barbeque, we hit up Saw’s Juke Joint for dinner. We started with some friend okra and fried green tomatoes (when in Rome and whatnot).  Both were tasty with the addition of some salt and pepper, though certainly less sophisticated that the FGTs at Ollie Irene. They were served with a house sauce that was reminiscent of Russian dressing. Being the mayonnaise hater that I am, I can confidently say ketchup was satisfying alternative. The star of my dining experience was the pork and greens dish – a heaping pile of melt-in-your-mouth pulled pork over a bed of cheddar cheese grits, turnip greens (you just know they were cooked in bacon fat), and a few fat, crispy onion rings for good measure, drizzed with tangy barbecue sauce.  Saw’s has a nice local craft beer selection and the servers are happy to walk you through the list and help you find a good fit. The one thing that left me feeling uneasy was the fact that EVERYTHING was served on Styrofoam and with plastic utensils. Yuck. I don’t want that stuff leeching into my food, not to mention the waste. My hope for Saw’s would be to green it up a little bit– this would be better for the food and the planet.

5 South Main, Cohasset, Massachusetts

See: http://5southmain.com

I am finally home for more than a few days at a time, and was grateful to enjoy a lovely breakfast with my husband on a sunny and warm Saturday morning at 5 South Main in Cohasset. (I am just back from Miami and am working on a post!)

5 South Main is located in the lovely Cohasset Village and serves breakfast and light lunch. (For those of you who don't live on the South Shore, if you ever have reason to go to a function at the Red Lion Inn, 5 South Main is just around the corner.) The dining room is cozy, particularly if you can get one of the coveted window seats, and there are a couple of tables outside for al fresco dining when the weather permits.

There are tons of homemade treats available daily, including muffins, cupcakes, and daily soup specials -- you can follow 5 South Main on Facebook for menu updates. Since our task was breakfast, however, we went right for the French toast. I opted for the original, while my husband went for the sampler -- one slice of the original and one slice of cinnamon roll version. The "original" consists of thickly sliced, locally baked cinnamon swirl bread that is grilled to golden perfection and topped with melted butter, cinnamon, and sugar. (I know that's a lot of superlatives, but this French toast is deserving of all of them, and then some.) It is simply some of the best French toast I've had in my life. The cinnamon roll version has all of these elements plus a few smears of icing for good measure. Tell me how that could be wrong. My only complaint is that 5 South Main does not offer real maple syrup, but the corn syrup based, fake kind. Our waitress (who was lovely and very attentive) assured us it would be ok to bring our own, so you better believe I'll be throwing that in my purse for next time (this may call for a maple syrup flask like device).

To feel better about our carb fest, we also shared a bowl of fruit -- a generous serving of seasonal melons, grapes and berries. I've said before that I usually skip coffee when out to breakfast as I find many restaurants don't pay it much attention, but the coffee at 5 South Main is pretty good, and no one complains if you ask for milk instead of cream.

If you're more of a pancake or a savory breakfast person (read: pancakes with chocolate chips, pecans, and caramel drizzle or crab cake eggs Benedict ), I'm sure you won't be disappointed. If you live in the area, a stop at nearby Holly Hill Farm for some weekly provisions or a hike is a nice way to wrap up the morning.

Myers + Chang, Boston, Massachusetts

See: http://www.myersandchang.com

I love Joanne Chang's story (Harvard educated business-women extraordinaire turned restauranteur), and have long been a fan of Flour (especially the carrot cake, sticky buns, curried tuna sandwiches, brioche au chocolat... you get the idea), so was eager to finally try Myers + Chang.

Myers + Chang looks like a modern and trendy diner, complete with counter seating where you can watch the chefs at work. The bar has its own menu, and there is surely something for everyone, as it contains selections of wine, sake, beer, specialty cocktails, and several house-made sodas. I tried the Mint Lime Rickey and it was a grown-up, gently effervescent version of the treat I used to get at Brigham's as a kid.

Myers + Chang has a great option for Monday and Tuesday diners known as the "Cheap Date Night," a collection of prix fixe menus designed to generously feed two people for $40. We tried "The Healthy Date", supplemented with the fish tacos (because we simply could not resist). The pan-roasted, soy glazed salmon stole the show -- it was cooked to perfection (flaking perfectly with the slightest touch of my fork) and served on a bed of brown rice (at our request) with crispy shallots, slices of ginger, and a sauce that was to die for. The fish tacos were also outstanding, and were filled with delicately fried bits of hake, kimchee salsa, and cilantro. With a side of baby bok choy and mustard green and edamame dumplings, this really was a healthy meal. Note that I didn't say low calorie -- it definitely wasn't that -- but this menu sure crammed in a ton of superfoods. Bok choy! Ginger! Mustard greens! Salmon!

Sadly we didn't save room for dessert (I know. Joanne Chang is involved and we didn't save room for dessert. Rookie move.). Let me just say there is ginger-lemon mouse. And Flour's carrot cake.

Lastly, the service was simply impeccable. Both the hostess and our server were warm, enthusiastic, and knowledgeable. I've been trying to increase traffic to this blog so have been making an effort to Tweet a bit. (After all, what fun is it to write like this without interacting with others?) The Myers + Chang folks were kind enough to respond to my Tweet, which was an extra nice way to end the evening (really struggling not to use a smiley-face emoticon here).

Avo, Birmingham, Alabama

See: http://avorestaurant.com

Birmingham surprised me. I mean, really surprised me. I didn't do my homework before the trip, and didn't know what to expect with respect to food. Admittedly, I've spent only a little bit of time in the South. This time includes my first year of college (completed in rural South Carolina), during which time I could basically afford the dining hall, Waffle House, and maybe the buffet at Shoney's.

Avo is located in the lovely borough of Mountain Brook, and sits above Dram Whiskey Bar, her sister restaurant. While I just passed through Dram, it looks like a great spot: full of trendy, whiskey sipping 30-somethings. I did peek at the menu, and the offerings include southern comfort foods like bacon mac and cheese (complete with bacon from Kentucky) and lots of yummy sounding burgers. The menu even boasts a separate section, just for sauces.

Avo features California inspired cuisine made with local products, and the decor is cool and tranquil. I enjoyed the Pan-Roasted Gulf Day-Boat fish feature, which happened to be Red Snapper. The fish was served over a chickpea puree, cherry tomatoes, and garnished with fried capers (delicious). The menu offers a few different sized plates, including traditional appetizers, "mids" and mains, with a few side options so you can create the perfect meal. Both Dram and Avo offer gorgeous outdoor seating options.

In case you didn't know (and again, I sure didn't), Birmingham had five chefs named as semifinalists for various James Beard Awards in 2012, including Frank Stitt's of Highlands Bar and Grill, who was a semifinalist again in 2013 (for outstanding restaurant). Sounds like I need to plan a second visit.

Puerto Rico

My husband's mother is from Puerto Rico, and we were very luck to have the opportunity to travel there with her last month. We landed in San Juan, and drove to Boqueron for the first part of our stay, which is in the southwest corner of the island. My husband still has family on the island, and his cousin swept us into the car and drove us to a road-side cafeteria about 15 minutes away from the San Juan airport called Mojitoes. Mojitoes is the kind of place where you are unlikely to see any Americans, and you better be pretty fluent with your Spanish. The pork roasts on a spit visible from the counter, and you can select a variety of local mains and sides. While I couldn't quite bring myself to eat an entire one, I did sample a bite of the blood sausage. It was black and spicy, and stuffed with rice -- delicious. I also ordered some crispy rice (known as pegao), and chickpeas, sautéed in a tomato based sauce with Caribbean spices. The roast pork was unlike pork I have ever had before, complete with a thick layer of skin (if you look closely, you can even see some pig hair -- does it get more authentic that that?). Don't forget to grab an ice cold Medalla to drink (note: please do not pronounce this "Ma-dalla". Try "Mei-dai-a" instead. You'll get a lot more respect, trust me).

Boqueron is a quiet seaside town, and a popular vacation spot for Puerto Ricans in the summer. Things can be quite slow during the week (read: many shops and restaurants are closed, particularly on Tuesdays), so plan accordingly. We stayed at the Cofresi Beach Hotel, which is certainly no frills, but very neat and clean. The rooms are actually small apartments, so you can buy some groceries and take care of yourself on Tuesday. There is also a lovely roof-deck which is a perfect place to enjoy your dinner, even during a rain storm, as there is a small covered area. 

When you need a break from the surf and sun, go to Pescaderia Villa Palmeras, right on the beach, for homemade empandaillas and more cold Medalla. The shrimp (camaron), fish (pescado), and beef (carne) were especially scrumptious and fresh.

For breakfast, you must visit Simple, a food truck run by Samara Fernandez (this is conveniently located right across the street from the Cofresi). Samara is lovely person, and she makes a mean breakfast. The scrambled eggs are not to be missed, and are served aside buttered toast on local bread. Ask Samara about the crepes, which are not on the menu. She offers a fruit crepe and tripleta (as in three kinds of meat), both of which you can top with tropical jam, dulce de leche, or even Nutella. She will also squeeze you some fresh orange juice, and make you a wonderful cup of coffee to your liking (light, medium, or dark). There is a patio with tables with umbrellas, and its a great place to meet all kinds of people.

We took a road-trip to Jobos Beach for a little variety during our stay in Boqueron. Jobos Beach is home to a world-wide surfing championship, and the waves live up to the hype. On the way back, we stopped at the Pool Bar in nearby Rincon. To find the Pool Bar, you have to drive through lovely, hilly streets lined by quaint homes and lush flora. You can catch glances of the ocean at some of the turns. The owners of the Pool Bar are surfer American types, and they have a resident cat named Sprinkles. The sushi is fresh, and there are some Puerto Rican inspired rolls with mango and coconut. The tempura friend bananas and ice cream hit the spot for dessert.

We eventually moseyed over to San Juan and experienced the joy of Rosa de Triana, a tapas restaurant in Old San Juan. If you can swing it, try to get there on a Friday or Saturday to see live Flamenco and traditional Spanish singing by the servers. The restaurant is located within the old Spanish fort, and we sat in the old ammunition storage area. The seafood dishes were amazing, and this is the place to try mofungo, a traditional Puerto Rican dish. It is served as little bites (and as such, takes away the bloated feeling that is guaranteed if you try to eat it as a main dish), spiked with garlic. The honeyed eggplant is also a treat not to be missed, as are the manchego cheese and ham plates. 

While in San Juan, you might also try the Mallorca Cafe for breakfast or a pastry. The Kasalta Bakery is also quite famous, particularly after President Obama paid them a visit in 2011 (if you can avoid driving there, do! It takes some kind of genius to negotiate the parking lot and traffic.). I had a mallorca sandwich made with manchego from Kasalta and it was in fact, a breakfast of champions -- ham and cheese served between two slices of sweet bread, topped with mounds of powdered sugar. A perfect marriage. 

In general, I found the food in Puerto Rico to be really amazing. However, I struggled to find a green vegetable anywhere, and eventually felt a bit bloated by the end of the week from all the fried food and carbs. If you can, break away from the empanadillas get yourself a piece of grilled or baked fish -- red snapper and dorado are usually local. If someone offers you Puerto Rican sauce, it is a sweet and sour tomato sauce, with lots of onions and green olives, and quite nice over grilled fish. 

Indian Connection, Durban, South Africa

See: http://www.indian-connection.co.za

I travel to Durban quasi regularly for work, and I have never had better Indian food in my entire life. I asked a friend why the Indian food is SO good and Durban, and her hypothesis is that its because there are so many people from India in Durban that the restaurants can prepare the food in a more traditional way. Whatever the reason, eating Indian food in Durban has ruined me for life.

Indian Connection is situated atop a hill in pretty safe part of town (and there is plenty of nearby parking, with attendants). The service is friendly, and you may very well get to meet each member of the family that owns the restaurant. It's worth ordering appetizers, as there is no rush here, and it may take some time before you see your entrees. An added bonus of Indian Connection is the extensive vegetarian selection, many of which contain mushrooms. Also, be sure and order at least one dish that features prawns.

The menu boasts a robust wine selection, featuring South African wines. A nice, versatile choice is the Nederberg sauvignon blanc. Notably absent from the menu however, is Indian beer.

We sampled a bunch of dishes (since there were five of us), but some of my favorite appetizers included the fish tikka and the paneer tikka. The latter is served as generous squares of paneer skewered with vegetables. The chefs at Indian Connection are not afraid to use heat (you can request to have your food mild, medium, hot or extra hot), so don't be afraid to speak up. The paneer tikka was quite spicy.

We had a mix of dishes for our entrees, including prawn korma, dhingri dolma (an amazing mushroom delight), dal makhani, and bhuna gosht. All were divine. We also ordered the bread basket, which had enough bread to feed a small army (which were clearly were, becuase we crushed it), and allowed you to sample everything.

I don't usually order dessert at Indian restaurants, but in Durban at least, there is a dessert known as the Bombay Crush. If you ever see this, you MUST get it. My first sip is always followed by the thought, "This is so weird. Why didn't I just get rice pudding?" But then... wait for it... I realize how delicious it is. It is so delicious that I end up craving it the next day, and the next. It's kind of like a milk shake, made with fennel, rosewater (which turns the whole thing maraschino cherry pink), and these very fine vermicelli noodles. I know, I know, but trust me, you've got to try it.